5 African Designers On The Peculiarities Of Their Indigenous Material Choices

Africa is a continent that encompasses remarkable cultural diversity and a rich heritage of indigenous fabrics. These fabrics not only serve as a means of artistic expression, but also hold immense historical and social significance. Through their unique designs, colors, and patterns, African fabrics encapsulate the stories, traditions, and identities of numerous ethnic communities across the continent. Indigenous fabrics are more than just pieces of cloth; they represent a vibrant tapestry of cultural heritage.

The production of these fabrics in involves meticulous processes, which usually combine age-old techniques with modern craftsmanship. Local artisans, for example, employ methods such as hand weaving, dyeing, embroidery, and printing to create textiles that are visually appealing and environmentally sustainable. Natural materials such as cotton, silk, raffia, and wool are sourced locally, ensuring a connection to the land and a minimal ecological impact.

Across the continent, numerous indigenous fabrics have gained international recognition for their cultural significance and exceptional craftsmanship. Some of the most renowned fabrics include Kente from Ghana, adire from Nigeria, kitenge from East Africa, and Bogolanfini (mud cloth) from Mali. Each fabric holds a distinct story, often associated with historical events, tribal symbols, or societal customs. For example, Kente, characterized by its intricate patterns and bold colors, is considered the fabric of royalty among the Akan people of Ghana. Adire, known for its vibrant indigo-dyed patterns, has been traditionally produced by the Yoruba people of Nigeria for centuries. Kitenge, a vibrant and versatile fabric, is used across East Africa for clothing, accessories, and home decor. Bogolanfini, with its earthy hues and mud-dyeing techniques, is associated with the Dogon and Bamana cultures in Mali.

Below, The Folklore Edit speaks to five Black designers whose fabrics not only contribute to local economies and provide livelihoods for artisans but also foster pride and a sense of identity within communities. By recognizing and supporting the artisans who create these fabrics, they’re ensuring the sensibilities and survival of traditional craftsmanship which contribute to a sustainable future.

BLOKE

Founded by Faith Oluwajimi in 2014, BLOKE, a sustainable Nigerian brand that is dedicated to providing eco-friendly and sustainable garments. It aims to introduce a distinct measure of luxury, by offering a bridge between contemporary design and handcrafted sensibilities. “This means that every one of our projects has a sense of view of a thorough examination of individuality in relation to social issues all around the globe, like sustainability,” Oluwajimi says. This philosophy has caused it to be recognized by the LVMH Prize Awards, for which it was nominated earlier this year.

BLOKE was created as a medium to explore the possibilities of creating ethically made garments that champions the values of inclusivity and collaborations, thereby forging a new path of cultural exploration with an avant-garde approach to textile and knitwear. Its materials and textiles are sourced across places in Africa such as Funtua in Nigeria and in South Africa. “Our materials are unique to us, and are transformed by our artisans here in Lagos, either by the hand-dye method, embroidery, or crocheting,” says Oluwajimi.

Cynthia Abila

An eponymous Nigerian brand that uses storytelling to capture the essence of Nigerian craftsmanship and cultural heritage, Cynthia Abila works with traditional textiles and intricate handwoven designs to create its range of womenswear. “We’re an ethnocentric brand that caters to the women who appreciate culture and individuality,” says Abila. “They appreciate history, as our pieces tell stories of folklore, societal norms, etc.” Each product tells a story, blending modern aesthetics with the rich tapestry of Nigerian culture. The brand’s commitment to preserving traditional techniques and empowering local artisans shines through in each meticulously crafted piece. 

From vibrant woven fabrics to intricately beaded jewelry, Cynthia Abila represents the spirit of Nigeria’s creative brilliance and serves as a proud ambassador of the country’s artistry on the global stage. Its exclusively produced fabrics are called n’jam, which translates to “my wrapper” in English. Big on artisanal craftsmanship, the brand works with, and trains, artisans – women especially, who have been internally displaced – to produce these textiles.

Doussou Traoré

In the bustling African fashion industry, there is a homegrown brand that shines bright: Mali’s Doussou Traoré. With a rich cultural heritage and a passion for innovation, this brand embodies the spirit of the continent. Drawing experiences from her extensive background in agriculture, diverse landscapes, and dynamic traditions in Africa, Traoré crafts products that are a perfect blend of ethical production and modernity. “I grew up in Mali, but lived in different countries including the US. I have always wanted to go back, and find ways to understand our culture more, and how to bring Mali into my brand. That’s how the fabrics came in,” says Traoré.

Through textiles, the brand showcases the Malian creative prowess. Its commitment to quality, sustainability, and empowering local artisans sets it apart, making it a symbol of pride and a testament to Mali’s entrepreneurial spirit. “The materials – handwoven cotton and natural fabrics – are sourced in Mali from organic farms, before the artisans use different traditional techniques to make prints on them, using natural sources of colors,” says Traoré. “The artisans use traditional motifs with a lot of meanings to produce contemporary designs, such as the Finimougou and Bogolan AKA mudcloth, which is indigenous to us.”

Kahindo

Kahindo is a namesake brand founded by Kahindo Mateene, and is inspired by her Congolese heritage. The brand seeks eco-friendly and sustainable solutions for everyday living. With a focus on environmental consciousness, Kahindo offers a diverse range of products that promote an ethical lifestyle. Mateene traveled across countries including Kenya, Nigeria, and Congo, before settling in the US. Thus, building a brand that speaks to her heritage was of great importance. “I’ve always wanted to do something that was very traditional and African, then make it modern and Westernized.”

From biodegradable packaging to organic cleaning products, the brand’s offerings cater to the growing demand for sustainable alternatives, creating original, exclusive prints, which are inspired by experiences with the African continent. “We design original prints. They’re inspired by different African cultures or countries,” Mateene says. By fostering a culture of sustainability and innovation, Kahindo aims to make a positive impact on the environment while encouraging Africans to embrace a greener future.

Kente Gentlemen

Founded by Aristide Loua, Ivorian-based gender-neutral brand Kente Gentlemen specializes in handcrafted garments. The sleek, stylish and finely detailed pieces showcase the skill and artistry of African tailors. Each garment is meticulously crafted using locally sourced materials, ensuring exceptional quality and durability. “I work with these traditional artisans, and add my own contemporary design,” Loua says. With a fusion of modern aesthetics and traditional craftsmanship, Kente Gentlemen caters to individuals seeking timeless elegance and sustainable fashion choices. 

The brand’s commitment to supporting local artisans and promoting the rich heritage of the Ivorian culture makes it a symbol of pride and authenticity. Hence, the dive into the exploration of peculiar fabrics and materials for production such as Baoulé, Senoufo, and Kita textiles, all from Côte d’Ivoire. “The Baoulé, for instance, is something that has been done since the 15th century,” says Loua. “It’s locally made, and an actual resource to the local communities of artisans here.” 

Words by Elvis Kachi